What's inside
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For cutting inlays, a plunge router is usually the easier and safer choice, especially when the recess begins inside a workpiece rather than at an edge. Its motor and bit can be lowered into the wood after the base is set down. A fixed-base router can cut inlays too, but starting and stopping the cut takes more care.
The right choice depends on your template, cutter and experience. In either case, a snug template-guided bit, a stable workpiece and shallow passes matter more than the router base alone.
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How inlay routing works
A typical inlay job has two parts: routing a shallow pocket, then cutting a matching piece that fits it. The pocket is often only 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. A template and guide bushing control the outline; a small-diameter straight or spiral bit removes the waste. The inlay piece is cut with the same template or a related one sized to account for the gap around the bushing.
That gap is easy to overlook. If the bushing is wider than the bit, the router follows an offset path. For example, a 5/8-inch guide bushing around a 1/4-inch bit leaves a 3/16-inch offset on each side. Your template or inlay-making method must account for it. Test the setup on scrap before routing the finished piece.
Plunge vs. fixed base for inlays
| Factor | Plunge router | Fixed-base router |
|---|---|---|
| Starting a pocket | Lower the running bit into the material in a controlled plunge | Bit position is set before the base contacts the work; plunge-style starts are not possible |
| Depth changes | Depth stop supports repeatable shallow passes | Depth is quick to set, but changing it between passes may require resetting the base |
| Template use | Works well with guide bushings and internal templates | Also works with bushings, but starting inside a template is less convenient |
| Handling | Often taller and heavier; plunge locks and posts add bulk | Often simpler and compact, though weight varies by model |
| Best fit | Internal pockets, repeated depth-controlled work | Edge profiles, router tables and users who already own one |
Why plunge is usually better
For a closed inlay pocket, the plunge base lets you position the router with the bit clear of the wood, start the motor, then lower the bit into the template opening. You can stop short of the final depth, lift the router and make another pass. That control reduces the chance of the bit grabbing as it enters the cut or digging a crater at the pocket’s start.
Set the depth stop carefully. If the pocket needs to be 3/16 inch deep, do not try to remove all 3/16 inch in one pass in hardwood. Two or three passes are more controlled, particularly with a narrow bit. Keep the router base flat on the template and move steadily; tilting the router can make one side of the pocket too deep or widen the edge.
A plunge router with guide-bushing compatibility is the more versatile buy if you expect to route inlays, lettering, stopped grooves and other cuts that begin inside a surface. Check that the router accepts the bushing system your template uses; mounting patterns are not universal.
When a fixed base is enough
A fixed-base router is a sensible choice if you already own one, the inlay is shallow, and you can safely lower the bit into the work or enter the cut from an edge. It is also a good fit if most of your routing is edge work and inlays are occasional. Buying a second router solely for a few simple pockets may not be worth it.
The trade-off is the start. With a fixed base, the bit’s projection is set before the cut. For a pocket in the middle of a panel, lowering a running router onto the work can cause a sudden bite, a slipped base or a burn mark. Some fixed-base routers can be paired with a plunge base, but confirm compatibility before buying; “convertible” does not mean every base fits every motor.
If choosing a first router mainly for inlays, a router kit with interchangeable bases can cover both jobs. It costs more than a basic fixed-base setup, and swapping bases adds setup time, so it pays off only if you will use both configurations.
Bits, templates and common mistakes
Use a sharp bit with a shank that matches the router collet. A 1/4-inch bit is common for fine inlay work, but a small bit is easier to deflect and can overheat if forced. Take light passes, clear chips, and avoid lingering in one spot. Follow the bit maker’s speed guidance; a small cutter generally runs faster than a large one, but the router’s speed range and material matter.
Secure the work and template so neither can shift. A template that moves even slightly can leave a pocket that is visibly off-center or too large for the inlay. Also check the depth in scrap: an overly deep pocket leaves a thin floor that may show through or break; a shallow pocket keeps the inlay proud and requires sanding that can dish the surrounding surface.
For a beginner, a guide-bushing set for router templates is useful only if its bushings fit your router and template plate. Verify diameters and mounting style, then make a test pocket and matching inlay in offcuts from the same material.
Which one to buy
Choose a plunge router if you are buying specifically for inlays, expect to make closed pockets, or want repeatable depth control across multiple passes. Choose a fixed-base router if you already have one, your inlay work is occasional, and you can manage the start safely. For either type, prioritize a stable base, a usable depth adjustment and compatibility with the guide bushing and template system you plan to use. A careful test cut will do more for the fit than paying for extra features you will not use.