What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
The Makita LS1219L and DeWalt DWS716 can both cut the miters and bevels used in crown molding, but they suit different jobs. The Makita is a 12-inch sliding compound saw with a rail system designed to save space behind the tool. The DeWalt is a smaller, 12-inch non-sliding compound saw that costs less and is easier to move. For repeated cuts on wide molding, the Makita’s extra capacity matters. For common trim sizes and occasional use, the DeWalt may be all you need.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
Our Top Picks
At a glance
| Feature | Makita LS1219L | DeWalt DWS716 |
|---|---|---|
| Blade size | 12 inches | 12 inches |
| Slide mechanism | Dual-rail sliding design | Non-sliding |
| Motor | 15 amps | 15 amps |
| Maximum crosscut at 90° | Up to 15 inches, depending on cut orientation | About 6-1/2 inches |
| Laser | Built-in laser | No built-in laser |
| Best fit | Wide stock and frequent work | Typical trim, simpler setup, lower cost |
Capacity figures depend on the workpiece orientation and the saw’s setup. Check the manual for the exact limits of the cut you plan to make, especially when the molding is nested against the fence.
Crown molding capacity and cutting method
Crown molding can be cut nested—held against the fence and table at its installed angle—or flat, with the saw tilted and swiveled to make a compound cut. Nested cutting is quick once the spring angle is established, but it requires a fence tall enough to support the molding and careful control of its position. Flat cutting is useful when the molding is too large to nest, but it takes more setup and accurate angle calculations.
The Makita’s sliding head is its key advantage for crown work. It can crosscut wider stock than the fixed-head DeWalt, and its rail arrangement moves forward rather than projecting far behind the saw. That helps when the saw has to sit near a wall. The trade-off is size and weight: a sliding 12-inch saw is a substantial shop tool, not something most people will want to carry up a ladder or move from room to room all day.
The DWS716’s fixed head limits crosscut width, but many standard crown profiles fit within its capacity when nested. Measure the molding’s actual width and test your setup with scrap. A profile that nearly reaches the saw’s limit leaves little room for an imperfect angle or a slightly different fence position. If it is too wide, you may need to cut it flat, use a different tool, or choose a sliding saw.
Accuracy, setup, and common mistakes
Neither saw can compensate for a poor reference surface or loose workholding. Crown molding has to sit in the same orientation for every matching cut. Mark the room corner, identify the wall and ceiling edges, and keep the molding’s top and bottom consistent at the saw. A test cut on two scrap pieces is cheaper than discovering a gap after cutting the full-length pieces.
The Makita’s laser can help show the blade’s cut line, but it is not a substitute for checking the actual kerf. Blade thickness, tooth set, and the laser’s adjustment affect where the cut lands. The DWS716 has no built-in laser, so use the blade teeth to line up the mark or add a separate marking method. On either saw, let the blade reach full speed before entering the work and wait for it to stop before lifting it clear.
A frequent failure is assuming a corner is exactly 90 degrees. It often is not. Measure the corner, then divide the measured angle by two for equal miters; for compound cuts, use the molding’s spring angle and the saw’s compound-cut settings. Another common problem is a piece that shifts as the blade exits. Clamp the stock when practical, support long pieces level with the table, and keep hands outside the marked danger zone.
Dust collection and blade choice
Both saws make fine dust, and the included dust bags are not a replacement for extraction. A vacuum connection helps, though miter saws still scatter dust because the blade is exposed and the cut throws chips forward. If you are working indoors, use a suitable extractor and clean up often; MDF dust in particular should not be left airborne.
For clean trim cuts, a sharp, fine-tooth blade is more important than choosing between these two saws. A high-tooth-count finish blade can reduce tear-out on painted wood and MDF, but it cuts more slowly and still needs a steady feed. Confirm that any replacement blade is the correct 12-inch diameter, arbor size, and speed rating for the saw. If crown molding is a regular part of your work, compare 12-inch fine-finish miter saw blades and replace a dull blade rather than forcing the cut.
Which saw should you buy?
Choose the Makita LS1219L if you regularly cut wide boards, oversized crown, or other trim that exceeds a fixed saw’s crosscut capacity. Its sliding action gives you more room to work, and its forward-rail design is useful in a compact shop. You are paying for that capacity and convenience, while accepting more weight, a larger footprint, and more moving parts to keep clean and adjusted.
Choose the DeWalt DWS716 if your molding fits its capacity and you value a simpler, generally less expensive saw. For a homeowner installing standard crown in a few rooms, it can make accurate cuts without the cost or bulk of a slider. It is also a sensible choice if you already have a separate solution for wider stock. Before buying, compare the molding’s measured width with the saw’s capacity in the exact orientation you intend to use.
If you are still deciding between fixed and sliding designs, browse 12-inch compound miter saws by capacity and rail layout rather than blade size alone. For repeat crown cuts, a stable support stand and clamps can make more difference to consistency than a laser; see miter saw stands with work supports. Whichever saw you choose, buy for the widest molding you actually expect to cut, then practice the corner setup on scrap before trimming the finished pieces.