What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Our Top Picks
Makita XPH12Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Compact Brushless Cordless7.8"L x 3.6"W x 9.5"H3.6 x 7.8 x 9.5 inches3.09 poundsCheck on Amazon
Makita XPH10Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2" Hammer1/2" (Pack of 1)3.62 x 8.54 x 8.9 inches3 poundsCheck on Amazon
Makita XPH12 vs DeWalt DCD996
The Makita XPH12 and DeWalt DCD996 are heavy-duty cordless hammer drills aimed at drilling masonry, driving large screws, and general construction work. Both use a 1/2-inch chuck and can handle occasional concrete-anchor holes, but they are not interchangeable in feel or capability.
The DeWalt is the more powerful drill on paper and the better choice when you regularly drill larger holes in brick, block, or concrete. The Makita is lighter, easier to control, and usually sufficient for small plastic anchors, Tapcon-style screws, and occasional masonry work.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
Specifications compared
| Specification | Makita XPH12 | DeWalt DCD996 |
|---|---|---|
| Battery platform | 18V LXT | 20V Max XR |
| Chuck size | 1/2 inch keyless | 1/2 inch nitro-carburized metal ratcheting |
| Speeds | 0–500 and 0–2,000 rpm | 0–450, 0–1,300, and 0–2,000 rpm |
| Hammer rate | Up to 31,500 bpm | Up to 38,250 bpm |
| Published maximum torque | 530 in-lb | Up to 1,000 in-lb |
| Tool weight, bare | About 3.9 lb | About 4.7 lb |
Published torque figures are not directly comparable between brands, and neither figure tells you exactly how quickly the drill will make a hole. Still, the DCD996 has a clear output advantage. Its three-speed gearbox also gives it a useful low-speed setting for large bits and high-resistance drilling.
Which drill is better for concrete anchors?
For small holes—typically 1/4 inch or less—the XPH12 is perfectly usable if you use a sharp masonry bit and do not expect production-drilling speed. A 1/4-inch hole several inches deep for a light-duty concrete screw is within the practical range of this drill. The DCD996 will usually make the hole faster, particularly in hard poured concrete, but the difference may not justify its additional weight for occasional jobs.
Once you move toward 3/8-inch holes, deeper holes, or a series of anchors, the DCD996 becomes the better hammer drill. Its higher impact rate and stronger motor help maintain progress when the bit starts packing with dust. It is also less likely to bog down when the bit catches aggregate.
Neither drill is the right tool for frequent 1/2-inch or larger anchor holes, deep structural holes, or dense reinforced concrete. A cordless rotary hammer with an SDS-Plus bit removes material much more efficiently. Hammer drills rely on a relatively mild back-and-forth chuck motion; rotary hammers use a dedicated impact mechanism. For repeated concrete work, shop for an cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammer instead.
Handling and control
The Makita’s lower weight is noticeable when drilling overhead or holding the tool against a wall for a long sequence of holes. It is also less tiring for general screwdriving and wood drilling. Its two-speed gearbox covers most routine work, and the clutch gives better control when switching from drilling to driving.
The DeWalt feels larger and more forceful. That extra mass can help keep the bit engaged, but it also makes the drill less pleasant for cabinet work, small fasteners, and extended overhead use. The three-speed gearbox is a genuine advantage for demanding drilling, while the metal chuck holds larger bits securely and generally tolerates jobsite abuse well.
Both drills have side handles. Use them for masonry work. A bit can bind suddenly when it hits aggregate, and trying to resist that torque with one hand is an easy way to lose control or damage your wrist.
How to use either drill for an anchor hole
Mark the hole and check for wiring, plumbing, and embedded reinforcement before drilling. Set the drill to hammer mode, select low gear for larger holes, and start square to the surface. Use a quality masonry bit set matched to the anchor manufacturer’s required diameter.
Apply firm pressure, but do not lean your full body weight on the drill. Clear dust every few inches by withdrawing the bit while it is spinning, especially in holes deeper than about 2 inches. Dust left in the hole can keep the anchor from seating fully and can reduce the holding strength of a concrete screw.
Stop if progress becomes extremely slow, the drill overheats, or the bit repeatedly locks up. A dull bit creates heat rather than a clean hole. For concrete screws, drill to the specified depth—often at least 1/4 inch deeper than the embedment—and clean the hole before installing the fastener.
Battery and runtime considerations
Battery choice changes the balance. A compact battery keeps the Makita relatively easy to handle, while a larger pack improves runtime and reduces voltage sag during masonry drilling. The DCD996 benefits from a 4Ah or 5Ah battery for hard drilling, although that pushes the complete tool well above its bare-tool weight.
If you already own batteries, platform compatibility should carry substantial weight. Buying the less powerful drill that shares your existing packs can be cheaper than starting a second battery system, especially for a handful of home repairs.
Which one should you buy?
Choose the Makita XPH12 if you want a compact all-purpose drill and only occasionally install small concrete anchors. It is the more comfortable tool for mixed drilling and driving, and the cheaper option is entirely reasonable for light masonry work when paired with good bits.
Choose the DeWalt DCD996 if concrete, block, and large fasteners are frequent parts of the job. Its stronger output, third speed, higher hammer rate, and robust chuck justify the extra size. For regular heavy masonry drilling, skip both hammer drills and buy a rotary hammer for concrete anchors. That is a more important upgrade than choosing between these two drills.