The short answer A track saw’s splinter guard usually reduces tear-out better for long, straight cuts with the saw it was made for. Its edge marks the blade’s cut line and supports the surface fibers right beside the kerf. A zero-clearance insert can do a similar job on a table saw, but it helps only … Read more
Why saw depth matters A circular saw cuts plywood more cleanly when the blade extends only a little past the underside of the sheet. Set it too deep and more teeth emerge below the wood, increasing tear-out and making the blade harder to control if it catches. Set it too shallow and the teeth may … Read more
A standard circular saw can cut fiber-cement siding, but it makes a large amount of fine, respirable silica dust. For occasional cuts, the practical setup is a corded or cordless saw fitted with a purpose-made fiber-cement blade, used outdoors with dust controls. For repeated cutting, a siding shear or a saw with effective dust collection … Read more
For roof framing, the Skilsaw SPT77WML and Milwaukee 6390-21 look like close competitors: both are corded 7-1/4-inch saws with 15-amp motors, aimed at demanding jobsite cutting. The important difference is that they are not the same type of saw. The SPT77WML is a true worm-drive saw. The Milwaukee 6390-21 is a conventional sidewinder. That distinction … Read more
Making raised-panel cabinet doors is a two-bit job at minimum: one bit cuts the decorative panel profile, and another cuts the cope-and-stick joints in the door frame. A matched raised-panel router bit set saves setup time and reduces the risk of mismatched profiles. The best set is not necessarily the one with the largest panel … Read more
The Makita XSH08 and Milwaukee 2732 are 7-1/4-inch rear-handle cordless circular saws built for long cuts in sheet goods and framing lumber. Either can cut concrete forms, but neither is a concrete saw: these are for wood formwork, not cured concrete, masonry, or cutting through rebar. For ordinary form panels, the deciding factors are your … Read more
The DeWalt DCS578 and Makita XSH07 are both 7-1/4-inch, 18V cordless circular saws built for demanding framing and cutting work. Each can make a nominal 2-5/8-inch-deep cut at 90 degrees, enough to get through 2-by material in one pass. Their real test is thicker stock: dense hardwood, wet lumber, or a cut that pushes close … Read more
For plywood templates, the choice between a spiral flush-trim bit and a bearing flush-trim bit affects more than cut speed. It changes how accurately the router follows the template, how cleanly it cuts the plywood edge, and how badly a small mistake damages the workpiece. For most occasional template work, a conventional bearing flush-trim bit … Read more
Choosing a router bit shank is mostly a matter of matching the bit to the router’s collet. A 1/2-inch shank will not fit a 1/4-inch collet, and a collet that accepts a larger shank should not be treated as a reason to buy the biggest bit available. The right choice also depends on the cut: … Read more
What matters in a deep plywood groove For shelving, a straight router bit has to cut a flat-bottomed channel to a consistent width without burning the plywood, wandering off line, or straining the router. The right bit depends on the groove’s width and depth, the plywood thickness, and how you plan to guide the router. … Read more