At a glance The Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2903-20 and Makita XFD15 are 18-volt-class, brushless hammer drills with two-speed gearboxes. Both can drive large bits in wood, but neither can escape the basic limits of a compact cordless drill: a long auger bit, a dull cutter, or a knot can stall it, twist your wrist, or … Read more
Thin stainless steel is easy to damage and surprisingly difficult to drill cleanly. The sheet flexes, the work-hardens quickly, and a dull bit can turn a 10-second hole into a blue, ragged mess. The best cordless drill for this job is not necessarily the most powerful one. It is a drill with a controllable low-speed … Read more
A three-cutter or four-cutter SDS-plus bit can get through rebar, but neither is a steel-cutting bit. Both have carbide cutting edges intended for masonry. If the bit hits reinforcing steel, the important difference is how well its head tolerates the impact and keeps cutting—not whether it can safely drill through steel indefinitely. For occasional holes … Read more
Drilling overhead into concrete is one of the messiest jobs you can do with a rotary hammer. Dust drops onto your face, fills the room, and can damage the hammer’s chuck or motor vents. A good dust shroud catches debris at the bit, but the best choice depends on your hammer, bit diameter, vacuum, and … Read more
For a few holes in ordinary concrete block, a carbide masonry bit is usually the sensible buy. For a large opening, repeated holes, or block with a hard face that defeats ordinary bits, a diamond core bit can make a cleaner, faster cut—but it needs the right drill, setup, and usually water or careful dust … Read more
Drilling a large hole in brick is less about brute force than controlling heat, vibration, and breakout. A rushed hole can crack the face of the brick, loosen mortar joints, or blow out a chunk around the exit. The safest method depends on the diameter, wall type, and whether the hole is for a pipe, … Read more
A combination drill has two jobs that can look similar from the outside: turning a bit and making holes in masonry. The mode selector decides whether the drill only rotates or also drives the bit forward and back. Use the wrong mode and you may get a slow hole, a damaged bit, or a spinning … Read more
Start with the thinset, not the chisel Removing thinset means breaking the bond between mortar and slab without gouging the concrete underneath. The right SDS-Plus chisel depends on how thick and stubborn the residue is, how much floor you have to clear, and how easily your rotary hammer can control the tool. For most tile-removal … Read more
Quick answer For most floor tile adhesive removal, a wide flat chisel is the more efficient choice once the tile is off: it covers more surface and can leave a more even result. A scaling chisel is better for stubborn, thick patches that need concentrated impact, but its narrower working edge removes less material per … Read more
Quick verdict Both the DeWalt DCH263 and Milwaukee 2715-20 have vibration-control features, but neither makes a rotary hammer vibration-free. The DeWalt uses SHOCKS active vibration control; Milwaukee lists an Anti-Vibration System (AVS). For repeated overhead or wall drilling, the DeWalt is a strong pick if reducing vibration exposure is your priority. The Milwaukee is a … Read more