For a large hole in wood, the arbor is more than a connector between drill and saw. It sets the saw’s maximum usable diameter, determines how the pilot bit is held, and affects how well the assembly stays aligned when the teeth catch. Choose by the hole saw’s shank and diameter, the drill you’ll use, … Read more
When a hole saw hits a nail buried in wood, the teeth—not the name on the package—decide whether the cut keeps going. A bi-metal hole saw is the sensible choice for occasional repairs and mixed wood-and-metal cutting. A carbide-tipped saw is usually better for repeated cuts through nail-embedded lumber, especially when nails are large or … Read more
What matters when drilling structural steel on site A magnetic drill press earns its keep when you need accurate holes in beams, columns, or plate too large to move to a drill press. Its magnetic base holds the machine against the steel while an annular cutter removes a ring of material, usually faster and with … Read more
Quick verdict The Milwaukee 2787-22 and Hougen HMD2MT are compact magnetic drills for steelwork, but they take different approaches. Milwaukee’s is a cordless 18-volt tool with a 1-1/2-inch annular-cutter capacity; the Hougen is a corded drill with a 2-inch capacity. Choose the Milwaukee when moving around a jobsite without a cord matters more than maximum … Read more
Quick answer For a modest enlargement in a thin metal electrical box, a step drill bit is usually the better choice: it removes material gradually, is easy to control, and can make several common knockout sizes with one bit. A hole saw is the better choice when you need a larger opening, a cleaner circular … Read more
A drill bit walks when its tip slides across the surface instead of cutting where you aim. Polished steel, aluminum sheet, and curved tubing are common trouble spots. The fix is usually a combination of marking the location, giving the bit a place to start, and keeping the tool square—not buying a more powerful drill. … Read more
For a large hole through steel, an annular cutter is usually faster than a twist drill—provided you have a compatible magnetic drill, enough clearance, and a cutter suited to the material. It removes a ring of metal rather than turning the whole hole into chips. A twist drill is slower at larger diameters, but it … Read more
For repeated drilling in steel, cobalt bits usually last longer than titanium-coated bits. The reason is simple: cobalt is part of the bit’s cutting material, while titanium nitride is a thin surface coating. Once that coating wears through at the cutting edge, the bit behaves much like the high-speed steel underneath. That does not make … Read more
For clean holes in stainless sheet, a sharp cobalt twist bit is usually the best buy. A quality high-speed steel (HSS) bit can work on thin sheet, but it loses its edge faster if the metal heats up or the bit rubs without cutting. Step bits are often easier to control for larger holes, though … Read more
For drilling a clean hole in reinforced concrete, the bit matters—but so do the hammer, the hole size and what you do when the tip meets steel. A standard masonry bit can make progress through the concrete and then stall, polish the rebar and overheat. A tougher carbide head may survive that encounter, but no … Read more