What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Our Top Picks
Quick verdict
The DeWalt DWE575 and Makita 5007F are 7¼-inch corded circular saws suited to framing, sheathing and roof work. Both can make the common cuts involved in roofing, including crosscuts through plywood and angled cuts for rafters. The key difference is handling: the DWE575 is notably lighter, while the 5007F offers a sturdy, familiar layout and a little more depth capacity at 90 degrees.
If you’ll carry the saw up a ladder, work overhead, or make many cuts in a day, the DeWalt’s lower weight is a real advantage. If the saw will mostly stay on the deck or ground, the Makita is a solid choice—and may be the better buy if it costs less. Neither replaces a proper roofing setup: secure the material, manage the cord, and keep the saw’s base supported through the cut.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
At-a-glance comparison
| Specification | DeWalt DWE575 | Makita 5007F |
|---|---|---|
| Blade diameter | 7¼ inches | 7¼ inches |
| Motor | 15 amps | 15 amps |
| No-load speed | 5,200 rpm | 5,800 rpm |
| Maximum cut at 90° | 2-9/16 inches | 2-3/8 inches |
| Maximum bevel | 57° | 56° |
| Approximate tool weight | 8.8 pounds | 10.6 pounds |
| Electric brake | No | Yes |
Specifications can vary slightly by market or product revision; check the manual for the saw you’re buying. The listed weights are tool weights, not the weight of the saw plus blade and cord. Both use standard 7¼-inch blades, so blade selection is broad and replacement blades are easy to find.
What matters most on a roof
Weight is the clearest difference. The DWE575 saves roughly 1.8 pounds compared with the 5007F. That may not sound dramatic at a workbench, but it matters when you lift the saw repeatedly, reach across a roof deck or make cuts with one hand guiding the material and the other controlling the tool. A lighter saw also puts less strain on your arm during long runs of sheathing cuts.
That does not make either saw safe to operate one-handed on a roof. Keep both hands on the saw where the cut requires them, and do not cut a loose panel balanced on the roof edge. Support the work on stable blocking or a properly set roof deck, and keep the offcut from pinching the blade. A pinched blade can kick the saw back toward the operator, especially if the cut closes as the panel shifts.
The Makita’s electric brake is useful when you need to set the saw down or reposition quickly: it stops the blade sooner after releasing the trigger. It is not a substitute for waiting until the blade has stopped, and it does not prevent kickback during a cut. The DeWalt lacks that feature, so allow the blade to coast to a complete stop before placing the saw down.
Cutting capacity and bevels
At 90 degrees, both saws can cut common roof sheathing in one pass. Their maximum depths exceed the thickness of typical 7/16-inch or 1/2-inch panels by a wide margin. The DeWalt’s extra depth—2-9/16 inches versus 2-3/8 inches—matters more when cutting thicker stock, such as a 2x member, than when trimming ordinary sheathing.
Both bevel well beyond 45 degrees, which is more than most roof-deck trimming requires. A bevel scale is only a starting point: verify the angle with a square or test cut before cutting a piece that must fit. On either saw, clear chips from the base and check that the bevel lock is tight. A loose setting can drift during a long cut and leave an angled edge that does not meet the next panel cleanly.
For straight sheet cuts, a clamped guide or a chalk line is more reliable than following a pencil mark while balancing on a slope. A fine-tooth blade can reduce splintering on plywood, but the right choice depends on the material and finish requirements. Use a blade rated for the saw’s speed, and unplug the saw before changing it.
Which one should you buy?
Choose the DWE575 if reducing fatigue is the priority, especially for repetitive cuts or work where you’ll carry the saw around the site. Its lower weight is the practical advantage; the slightly lower no-load speed is not, by itself, a reason to expect slower roofing cuts. Feed rate, blade condition and keeping the material supported matter more.
Choose the Makita 5007F if you value the brake and prefer its feel, or if it is meaningfully cheaper in your area. For occasional roof repairs, a few sheets of sheathing or ground-level framing, its extra weight is a fair trade. Paying more for the lighter saw is hard to justify if the tool will see light use and the weight difference will not affect how you work.
Compare the current price of the DeWalt DWE575 and the Makita 5007F with the blade and accessories included. If neither is bundled with a suitable blade, a sharp 7¼-inch framing blade is a more useful upgrade than paying extra for a feature you will rarely use.
Setup and common mistakes
Both saws are corded, so plan the cord path before cutting. Keep it behind the saw and away from the blade, the cut line and the roof edge. A cord that catches on a panel can pull the saw off line; a damaged cord is a shock hazard. Use an appropriately rated extension cord for the length and current, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for outdoor use and electrical protection.
Check the blade guard before each job. It should move freely and return over the blade; sawdust, pitch or a bent guard can stop it from closing. Do not tie it open to make a bevel cut easier. Set the depth so the blade extends only far enough below the material to cut through it—excess exposure increases the amount of blade available to snag or contact something beneath the panel.
For roofing work, the better saw is the one you can control while maintaining stable footing and supporting the material. The DeWalt makes that easier over a long day; the Makita gives you a brake and remains capable for ordinary cuts. Price, workload and how much time you’ll spend carrying the tool should decide between them.