Veneer is thin, brittle, and unforgiving. A router bit that works well on plywood edges can still chip a veneer face, tear out at the end of a panel, or leave a bearing mark that must be sanded away. The choice between a spiral flush-trim bit and a bearing-guided straight bit comes down to cut … Read more
For cutting small roundovers, a handheld router is usually the better first choice. It is quicker to set up, easier to use on large panels, and perfectly capable of cutting common 1/8-inch and 1/4-inch radii. A router table earns its space when you need repeatable results on short parts, narrow workpieces, or a batch of … Read more
Cleaning the bottom of a dado is one of those jobs where a sharp chisel can be enough—but a router plane makes the result more predictable. The choice depends on how much material remains, how wide the dado is, and whether the bottom must be uniformly flat rather than merely clean enough for a shelf … Read more
For rounding over small cabinet parts, a compact trim router is usually the right tool. It is lighter and easier to control than a full-size router, yet it has enough power for a 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch round-over bit in plywood, hardwood, and solid edging. The best choice depends less on maximum horsepower than on control, … Read more
For routing aluminum, a two-flute bit is usually the safer starting point. It clears chips more easily, tolerates a slower feed rate, and is less likely to rub instead of cut. A three-flute bit can produce a smoother finish and remove material faster, but it needs a machine capable of maintaining the right feed and … Read more
Router bit burning in dense hardwood is usually a heat-management problem, not a lack-of-power problem. Burning leaves brown or black marks, softens the cut edge, and can turn a sharp bit dull in minutes. The usual causes are a dull cutter, excessive cutting depth, a slow feed rate, or a router running at the wrong … Read more
Cutting a deep mortise is one of the jobs where router-base design matters more than motor size. A fixed-base router can remove a lot of wood accurately, but it is awkward to start inside a workpiece. A plunge router starts cleanly and controls depth better, especially for stopped mortises. The right choice depends on how … Read more
For making cabinet door profiles, a router table is usually the better first purchase. It costs less, uses the same router many woodworkers already own, and handles the common jobs: raised panels, roundovers, ogees, rabbets, and cope-and-stick joinery. A shaper becomes worthwhile when you need production speed, large cutters, repeatable setup, or heavier work in … Read more
Best Compression Router Bit for Cutting Melamine on a CNC Router For cutting melamine-faced particleboard or MDF on a CNC router, a two-flute compression bit is usually the best choice. It combines an upcut section at the tip with a downcut section above it. The upcut pulls chips out of the bottom of the panel, … Read more
Best Router Bit for Cutting a Lock-Miter Joint in Hardwood The best router bit for a lock-miter joint in hardwood is a full-size, carbide-tipped lock-miter bit with a 1/2-inch shank. For most cabinet work, a bit in the 1-1/2-inch to 1-3/4-inch diameter range is the practical choice. It gives the joint enough bearing surface to … Read more